A trekking trip in Jiangxi

Finally, I decided to take advantage of the long National Holidays to to get out of the city and to have a trekking trip in the mountains. My destination is the Wu Gong Mountain with the elevation of 1918m, the highest peak in Jiangxi Province. In Chinese, it is called 白鹤峰 or 金顶.

In the morning, I redeemed my miles in my frequent flyer program from China Eastern Airlines, and in the afternoon I took a flight From Shanghai Hongqiao Airport (SHA) to the city of Changsha (CSX). From there I had a plan to ride a train to Pingxiang, an entry town to Wu Gong Mountain. But I had a better luck to take the last bus of the day directly from the airport to Pingxiang. I saw it was raining ever since the bus headed onto the highway, and it would be raining all night long, not a encouraging sign for an outdoor trip.

The bus took about 1 hour and 40 minutes, and we arrived to the town after dark. I tried to find my hotel. The locals seemed not have a good sense of their streets. I asked one store owner near the bus stop, “Do you know where is Yuejin North Rd.?” She shook her head and told me that she had no idea. I then found the street just about 20 meters away from her store at the intersection. I called my hotel to ask direction and neither of the two girls who talked with me knew how to direct me. In the end, I managed to navigate to it in a rain shower. I stayed in the hotel for one night, and headed out to the mountain the next day.

The mountain is a big attraction to hikers and tourists in Jiangxi Province and nearby Hunan Province. The hiking turned out being an adventure, a long and winding ordeal. In the bus from Pingxiang to Maxiang of Luxi County, I met two hikers who also planned to trek through the mountain range from Jiulong Mountain passing the highest peak to Mingyue mountain, a trail that spans about 70kilometers.

We caught a small minivan that shuttled us to the trail head, where there are several hostels for hikers. We saw a young couple who were not certain whether they could go up the mountain today or not. The guy asked me whether we can hold on for a while when they discuss whether to venture with us. But the two hikers with me were not willing to wait because they thought the girl might slow us down. So we walked on and told them to catch up with us if they wanted to. They never came up.

It was already about 2pm and it was still raining, and it would be raining for the entire day.

At the beginning of the trail we saw a group students taking a break. The two hikers stopped and took a couple of pictures. They then charged on. I was never able to keep pace with them. They were from Xiangtan, a town southern to Changsha, where Mao attended his teacher’s college. They were veterans from the People’s Liberation arm (PLA). Apparently, the experience gave a huge physical advantage.

Soldiers of PLA have to go through many physical challenges during their tenure in the arm. I had a brief military training at the first month of my freshman year, which was required for all students joining major colleges countrywide. That was before the year of 1989. After the students protest in Beijing in 1989, some colleges such as Peking University were required to put the new comers through a one year military training to tough up and to be patriotic. What I remembered the most clearly was that the one-month long training put 7 kilograms on my weight, which was great since I was thin at that time. In fact, most of my schoolmates gained significant weight. Because of the regularity of the military life and daily physical exercises, we ate and slept everyday at precise timing like domesticated animals.

After the two veterans disappeared somewhere up in the mountain, I decided hiking with the group of students for the rest of the day. There are seven of them in total, two couples and three boys. The rain took away some of the pleasure of hiking. It dropped the visibility and we could not observe the entirety of the scenic landscape even when we hiked up to the high ridge grassland. The students were all schoolmates from a college in Zhuzhou, a city to the east of Xiangtan in Hunan province, which is about an hour ride by bus to Pingxiang. They were at their senior year and all of them are facing decision for their postgraduate life, whether it will be a graduate education or a job, or else. Most of them are originated in Hunan except for one student who came from Jiangsu Province.

The students walked slowly but in a steady pace. That suited to my condition. My backpack was too heavy for me, and it made the trip very strenuous. I had packed a single-person tent, a sleeping bag and a sleeping pad. Also, I had a Mac Air laptop, some spare clothes, my old canon SLR (Rebel XT) camera bought in America (which was not used), a bottle of water and some food. I even carried a plastic bag of food in my hand during the whole trip, which was a huge annoyance from time to time and was definitely marked as a bad plan. The tent, the sleeping bag and the pad were all unused. They could be only justified for enhancing my physical endurance, which was not what I seriously intended. My original plan was to trek for at least two days until I reach the Mingyue Mountain range. I abandoned that plan soon after I realized that the heavy backpack made that impractical.

We hiked up to the grassland at the mountain ridge about 5pm. It was still lightly rainy and windy. The trial was well-marked but muddy and slippery. They students did not expect a hike like this, and they complained that the driver who shuttled them to the trial head tricked them. Otherwise, they should be those regular tourists who ride buses to the main entrance, pay the entrance fee, take the cable carts to the summit. I was battered down by my giant backpack. The rain seemed to have added extra weight to it. My knees and back were hurt. It would took up another three hrs to reach the summit, actually a spot scenic spot that is close to the summit, called Wugong Shan Sheng, the god of Wugong Mountain. Nobody at the point was at all spirited to venture to the summit. By then, it became completely dark and I put on my headlight. The students came unprepared and only one of them had a cell phone that had a flash light. At ridge of the mountain, we saw house lights down below in the valley, and many of students were excited thinking we were near the destination. In the dark, and in particular when the air was misty, it was difficult to tell the distance from the light. It would still took us another 4 hours walking helplessly in the muddy, slippery and grassy trial before arriving the end of it, the bottom of the mountain (the tourist entrance). It was 11:00pm, and we were exhausted, hungry and cold.

By the parking lot near the entrance, a restaurant apparently looked closed for business but there was light on the second floor. We yelled to the upstairs and the owner and his wife came down. They were not unhappy for new business around mid-night. They cooked for us. It was a nice meal much needed. The couple were locals. They rent the place from the government for 8 years in total, and they pay annual tax of 30,000RMB. The mountain only attracts tourists and backpackers during good seasons and holidays. They roughly have 6 months good business each year. It is not an easy business according to the wife. It was certainly not good during this particular rainy holidays. The male owner had a car and he drove us down to the valley to find a hotel. We settled down in a hotel run by a villager family, a 60RMB a night with hot water shower.

The trekking itself was a disappointed one because the rain and hiking in the dark. Nonetheless, the trip gives an outlet to the boredom of city life.

We took a bus back to Pingxiang the next day. I slip sway from the group when the bus arrived Pingxiang, and then I took a bus to the railway station. No ticket left for Shanghai. I took a train to Nanchang, the capital city of Jiangxi, which is 300km to the east of Pingxiang and closer to Shanghai. Non ticket left for Shanghai in the same day there either. I bought a ticket for the next day (a harmonious high speed train) to Shanghai HongQiao Transit Complex (Yes, that’s the name for the railway station of a mega city of international appeal). I found a Hanting hotel, a national motel-like chain, cross the street from the railway station in Nanchang.

Many railway stations in Chinese cities like the ones in Nanchang and Pingxiang still much looked like what they were more than a decade ago, even though the railway system and technology have been undergoing through a dramatic change during this boom period (as same as the other sectors in the country). But the quality of the service and the attitude of serving passengers remain largely unchanged. The waiting rooms are crammed with overflow of passengers, the floors are dirty and remain unattended, and the staff is reluctant and unhelpful to travelers who ever try to seek advice. Checking into a platform is always a rush of human stream through narrow entrances in a short time before a train departs, and the exit hall ways are as disastrous.

The key reason for such a big gap between the infrastructure development and service providing is that the railway system is a state monopoly. It is owned and run by the Ministry of Railway that is somehow separate from another seemingly related one called Ministry of Transportation. Most government-run businesses in China do not match their products with upgraded services, even though the nature of some business like railway is designed to provide a service.

The on board service focuses squarely on profit, and sometime it is irrational. In the morning harmonious train to Hongqiao, I was taking a nap and a stewardess walked through our cabin, “Does anybody want a coffee?”. “Me!” I reflexed. She poured the coffee from a jar into one paper cup, “Ten yuan”. A small cup of instant coffee costs ten yuan on a harmonious train of new China? It was outrageous for sure, but this was in fact a horrible business. Nobody in my cabin of more than 100 people asked for a coffee except for me who mistakenly thought it was complimentary, and my neighbors must have been amazed by the level of my morning urge for caffeine.

A rational private vender would never charge 10 yuan, because you do not have a business by overpricing your merchandise to a ridiculous level (not even for potential customers who are stuck in a harmonious train for 7 hours). But that won’t matter to a state-owned monopoly. It is not because they do not want to make profit. They do not have the attitude to work with a due diligence. It is an old habit and a usual mentality passed on from the communist era. A simple and one way thinking with little desire to adjust.

It feels good to be back to Shanghai. Look forward to the next trip.

Breaking Trail

Here is an inspiring book, "Breaking Trail", by Arlene Blum, a female mountaineer, an MIT graduate and also a trained scientist (a biochemist). Check out  her interview with National Geographic.  She is the first American woman that attempted to summit Mt Everest. At age 60 now, she still looks forward to 25 more years active life at high altitude. Way to go!

Click here to download the free mp3 file for the podcast interview by National Geographic.